Hi Lift Jack Repair Kit Guide: What Is in the Kit and How to Use It
A hi lift jack repair kit holds the wear parts that keep a Hi-Lift jack lifting, and this guide explains what is inside, what it fixes, and how to fit it.
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A tire rotation turns into a wrestling match when the farm jack climbs a notch, slips back, and refuses to hold its place. That tired climbing action usually means worn pins and springs, not a dead jack, and a hi lift jack repair kit is the small bag of replacement wear parts that puts it right. The kit holds the pins, springs, cross pins and shear bolt the lifting unit wears out, so a jack that slips or sticks can often go back to work without buying a new jack.
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Below: what is inside the kit, what it fixes, how to fit the parts, and how to tell a genuine kit from an aftermarket copy.
What is in a hi lift jack repair kit?
Every kit covered here follows the same pattern, set by the genuine Hi-Lift Fix-It-Kit, part number FK-1: 2 climbing pins with springs, 2 cross pins, and 1 shear bolt and nut. A tube of jack lubricant comes with the genuine kit and with the Dsyboko 2-pack; the other kits here leave it out. Aftermarket kits sold as FK-1 replacements hold the same core parts, with small differences: some sell 2 sets in the same box, and some call the shear bolt a link bolt.
| Part | In the kit | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing pins with springs | 2 | Catch the bar and carry the load up, one notch at a time |
| Cross pins | 2 | Retain the climbing pins in the lifting unit |
| Shear bolt and nut | 1 | Joins the parts and is made to shear if the jack is overloaded |
| Jack lubricant | A tube, in the genuine kit and the Dsyboko 2-pack only | Keeps the pins and the bar moving freely after the rebuild |
The Blulu kit sells 2 sets in one box, each set holding the same parts, and the Dsyboko 2-pack holds 14 items in total. The other kits here are single sets.
What a repair kit fixes, and what it does not
A jack that slips under load, sticks halfway up the bar, or drops back when the handle is worked has usually worn the parts the kit replaces. The climbing pins and their springs do the hard work on every lift, and when they no longer catch cleanly the jack cannot hold its place. Fresh pins, fresh springs and a new shear bolt put the action back, and lubricating the parts after the rebuild keeps them moving instead of grinding.
The kit cannot put right damage outside the lifting unit. A bent bar or a damaged body is not a wear-part problem, and a bag of small parts will not fix it. Check the jack maker’s manual and replace the damaged part or the jack instead. The kit earns its keep on wear, not on damage.
How to rebuild a Hi-Lift jack with a repair kit
Set the jack on solid level ground with no load on it, and keep hands clear of the bar while the mechanism is open. The kit makers describe the job as straightforward work with basic tools, and each new part goes where the old one came out.
- Lower the jack fully and set it on solid level ground, with no load on it and nobody under anything it was holding.
- Clean the bar and the lifting unit so grit does not fall into the open mechanism, and look at each pin, spring and bolt before touching a tool.
- Take out the worn climbing pins and springs with a wrench and a screwdriver, keeping the parts in order so each new part goes where the old one came out.
- Tap out the worn cross pins and shear bolt with a hammer where the fit is tight, and check the holes they came from for wear or rough edges.
- Fit the new climbing pins with their springs, then the new cross pins and the new shear bolt and nut, seating each part fully before moving on.
- Work a thin film of jack lubricant over the bar and the moving parts, using the tube supplied with the kit where one is included, then work the handle through its full travel and watch the pins catch at each step.
- Check the jack holds under a light load on solid level ground, and never get under a vehicle that rests on a jack alone: lower it onto rated stands first.
If a part will not seat, or the mechanism still slips after the rebuild, stop and check the jack maker’s manual. A repair kit cannot fix wear in the parts it does not replace.
Genuine Hi-Lift FK-1 kit vs aftermarket kits
The genuine Hi-Lift Fix-It-Kit, part number FK-1, is the reference the copies are measured against. The maker states it holds the parts for servicing all Hi-Lift jack lifting units, and that it is compatible only with genuine Hi-Lift brand jacks. It weighs 0.07 pounds and measures 7.1 inches by 4.7 inches by 0.9 inches, and the maker covers it for 12 months from the date of purchase, for the original owner only, against defective materials and workmanship.
Several aftermarket kits sold as FK-1 replacements state compatibility with most Hi-Lift jack models, and several list the same load figure: up to 7000 lbs of load bearing capacity, with high-strength steel parts and a rust-resistant coating. The Atesilor kit states 45# carbon steel for its climbing pins and a 3 Ton rating for the jack the kit fits, while the PIHIL and LRWZOV kits repeat the 7000 lbs figure for their steel parts.
Weights and pack sizes vary more than the parts do. The single kits weigh 0.3 pounds, 0.4 pounds and 0.44 pounds, while the Blulu kit sells 2 sets at 0.87 pounds and the Dsyboko 2-pack holds 14 items in one box at 0.1 pounds. Warranty terms vary too: 90-day cover on one Dsyboko kit, 30 days on the PIHIL kit, and 1 Year on the Atesilor kit, against 12 months on the genuine kit.
Match the kit to the jack before ordering: a kit that fits most Hi-Lift models still needs the right pins for the jack in the garage.
A jack is for lifting, not holding. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack: set it on rated jack stands, on solid, level ground, at the manufacturer's lift points, chock the wheels, and give the car a firm shake before you go under. Read our Safety Disclaimer.
FAQ: garage tools
Does a hi lift jack repair kit fit any Hi-Lift jack?
Not any jack, and not any kit. The genuine FK-1 kit is compatible only with genuine Hi-Lift brand jacks, while the aftermarket kits state compatibility with most Hi-Lift jack models. Check the maker’s fitment notes for the jack in the garage before ordering.
What parts wear out first on a Hi-Lift jack?
The climbing pins and their springs do the hard work on every lift, so they are the parts the kit is built around: 2 climbing pins with springs in every kit here, with 2 cross pins and 1 shear bolt and nut alongside them. When the pins no longer catch cleanly, the jack slips, and a rebuild with fresh parts is the fix the kit is made for.
How do I know my jack needs a rebuild?
A jack that slips under load, sticks on the way up, or drops back when the handle is worked is telling you its wear parts are done. Clean the bar and the mechanism first, since grit can look like wear, and if the action is still poor, fit the kit.
Do I need a new shear bolt?
The kit includes 1 shear bolt and nut, so fit the new one when you rebuild. It is made to shear if the jack is overloaded, and a worn or damaged bolt is not a part to reuse. Never fit a plain bolt in its place.
What tools do I need to fit the kit?
A wrench and a screwdriver cover most of the job, and a hammer helps where a pin is tight. Those are the tools the kit makers name for removing the worn parts and fitting the new ones, with no load on the jack.
Can I use the jack right after fitting the kit?
Work the handle through its full travel first and watch the pins catch, then check the jack holds under a light load on solid level ground. Only then put it back to work, and never get under a vehicle that rests on a jack alone: lower it onto rated stands first, at the lift points the vehicle manual names.
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